Facing garlic at Toum. Given the name of this website, which coincidentally reflects not only the dietary requirements of Anthony but also my own (except that I never felt bold enough to tell anyone until the great man made it ok for all of us sufferers to come out), I wondered how I’d cope at Toum.
This is Tarek Farah’s second London opening, his first Aline, is a few doors down and serves traditional Lebanese fare in a bright, modern setting off London’s Regent Street. Bagging this location, footfall is never going to be an issue at either of his restaurants. Toum is very different from Aline. Yes, there are Lebanese touches everywhere: mussakhan rolls, hummus, rose water soft serve ice cream but this is first and foremost a chic brasserie dedicated to rotisserie chicken avec frites, with a choice of sauces (but you’d be a bit crazy to overlook the one the restaurant is named after, toum). Generally, I can easily resist anything with garlic but here, it’s done too well to ignore.
Toum is a destination restaurant not just for the food, it’s a great place to sit in and admire the decor. If interiors are your thing, you’ll be spoilt here. It’s young and vibrant but oozing Parisian elegance. Everything around you, from your seat to the geometric lights that adorn the place has been made to the highest spec. I especially love the wood panelling and the pink glittery tiles that accent the floor- all done by Lebanese craftsmen flown in just for the job.
I went with my 17 year old son for a late lunch on a Monday during Ramadan and thought we’d be the only customers given the time of day but no, they kept trickling through. We had their lunch specials which are competitively priced especially for this part of town. The chicken is lovely and I think it’s worth staking the whole reputation of the restaurant on it. If you’re just there because your companion is into roast chicken but you aren’t, don’t worry, you’ll be well looked after by the ancillary items on the menu. Make sure you save some room for dessert. The chocolate mousse with macerated cherries brings out the child in all of us- I’ve not had the like of it anywhere else and it’s one of the main reasons I keep going back to Toum. On this particular occasion, we went off script and ordered a tarte tatin and the rose water soft serve. The tatin was all sophistication whilst the soft serve served as a good stand in for the child-of-any-age-pleasing chocolate mousse. As pretty as a picture dotted with chunks of pink turkish delight and green pistachios and just the right amount of rose flavour (rose water must be handled with care- one drop too much and you end up with something more appropriate for your bath than your palate).
Toum is one of those versatile all encompassing places that can cater equally for a business lunch, a gathering of friends for a late night dinner or the solitary diner who wants to just take in the ambience. If you’re visiting it will definitely be along your main tourist path but a welcome and serene escape from it.
Toum Rotisserie, 18a Maddox Street, London W1S 1PL
Angela Zaher is a freelance writer based in London. Her articles have been published in The Evening Standard, Delicious, Platinum, Good Housekeeping and Business Insider. She’s a columnist and writes regular restaurant reviews for luxury lifestyle magazine, Time & Leisure. She is on the Committee of the Guild of Food Writers and organises foodie events on an ad hoc basis. Find her on instagram @angela_zaher.
